Sunday, September 23, 2007

Apples, Peaches, Pears and Plums


(Caveat: sorry for the jumpy camera work. I'm still learning about video.)

I think my goal is to actually can this entire poem by the end of the year. Right now I'm on the second fruit, peaches, and, well, it's been a bit bumpy. I started last weekend but, on one of those days during which you really should not be cooking, I got distracted and let the peaches burn. To be fair, this is partly the fault of what is in fact a very thin-bottomed stoneware pot. But really, I just spaced out and by the time I got back to the pot the syrup had turned dark and bitter and it was pretty much inedible.

(Some day when I don't have a million deadlines to meet I'll use this opportunity to insert a meditation on cooking and remaining present. But until then, I know you've already read the greeting card.)


I'm still trying to get the burned stuff off the bottom of the pot. Yech. That's the burned stuff to the right. The bummer is that it was ALMOST this yummy, sticky, caramel-y stuff. But T. weighed in and said, no, it's inedible, so I threw it all into the compost. Sometimes cooking is like writing: you really have to make yourself edit out the bad stuff but it's painful to lose that work!

Below are the peaches I used in the final batch. I was able to get my peaches from Frog Hollow Farms for a discounted price because a lot of them were bruised or at least half unusable. Frog Hollow will sell you discounted flats of fruit if you ask for "jammers."

I mixed 6lbs of peeled, cut fruit with 8 cups of sugar and the juice of three lemons:

video

Then I macerated the fruit (let it sit in the sugar-lemon mix to release the juices) for about two hours:

video

Here's Lizzy guarding the macerating peaches. She's wondering: why do you eat this stuff if there's no meat in it? And, hey, does that camera taste good?


Finally, it was ready:


All in all a success, except for the first batch of peaches. I've accumulated a couple of lessons in jam making over the last few weeks. First: I think that waiting for the jam to wrinkle when you put it on a cold plate overcooks the jam. I'm going to start undercooking my jam a little more. Second, I think that most jam recipes are asking for too much sugar. I think that an 80/20 fruit to sugar ratio is probably best. More sugar than that and you're obscuring the natural sweetness of ripe fruit.

I'd love your feedback and commentary.

7 comments:

Julie said...

I really admire your canning stamina! I wish some of the growers local to NYC would offer "jammers" -- maybe they do and I'm not aware of it. Ah well, next year perhaps.

Pieds Des Anges (Kyla) said...

You really have to be aggressive about asking them. I was kind of surprised about the farmer's in the Bay Area, they're much less likely to sell anything at a reduced price. Unlike the Hollywood Farmer's Market where you can get anything at a reduced price at the end of the day. At least in terms of fruit.

Ooh I have a comment on umami. I'm on my way over to your place now.

sabrina said...

I will be contacting you next summer when my peach tree starts showering me with dozens of goodies each day. Every year I swear I am going to learn how to can those suckers. Instead, I just give them all away (my friends really don't mind) and I manage to make one jar of infused vodka that I enjoy later in the fall.

Lisa said...

Your jam looks deeeelicious. I'm heading over to our local orchard to go apple and peach picking this weekend, and I think I'll try making the jam on Sunday. (Although my favorite way to eat a peach is macerated, placed in a glass and covered with champagne!)

Kyla said...

Sabrina -- we're on! Our landlords have pear trees here but the raccoons always eat them; a fruit tree is a real luxury!

Kyla said...

Lisa -- holy cow you have so many blogs!! I love your cookie blog and when I got to the nanaimo bar I actually choked up with homesickness. I'm going to visit them all now. I've never tried peaches that way but now I will.

Not Quite Nigella said...

Great step by step and I completely agree about jam recipes asking for too much sugar and less sugar bringing out the taste of the fruit.

Wow you did a PhD in food studies at Stanford-that's so fabulous! :)